Skin Deep Beauty: Enhancing and Flattering Any Skin Tone [Photo Gallery]

Google the name Matthew Jordan Smith and a list of impressive credits pop up for the iconic beauty and portrait photographer, including shooting a celebrity clientele (Oprah Winfrey, Vanessa Williams, Jennifer Connelly, Halle Berry, Britney Spears, Jamie Foxx and many more); campaigns showcasing the latest products (and models) for Pantene, L’Oréal, Revlon and Olay; and gigs on America’s Next Top Model, The Tyra Banks Show and E! Entertainment Television. And this is just a sliver of his long, remarkable resume.

Known as a lighting master in his genre, Smith says over the years he has learned to “master the light for each situation, and it is never the same.” When he takes meter readings, for instance, he’s always thinking about the skin tone of his subject. 

“I interpret the metering based on my subject; I rarely shoot more than one subject in the same way.” Factored into that is also the background. “The secret to making a white background, for example, is by having the perfect amount of light,” he explains. “It’s not about blasting out the background. If my front reading is 11, my background is going to be 3/4 to a stop over, no more than that. So if I’m getting f/11 on my model, in the background I’m going to get 11/7, 11/8, 11/9—somewhere in that family. That’s all I need to get a crisp, great background, which in turn showcases the skin the way I want.” When shot the wrong way, he adds (for instance, by using a stop and a half or two stops over), then you get a blown out, milky background.

Smith’s Quick Tips
1. When it comes to skin tone, decide early on how you want the skin to look, then achieve that through multiple readings and different exposures. No two people take the same light.

2. Interview makeup artists the same way you would interview models. I don’t want someone who ‘cakes’ it on; I want someone who can give me ’second skin’ makeup. Having a model with great skin is key to a great shot, as is having a great makeup artist to work with. The better the skin, the better the look right out of camera. The right makeup artist will see nuances in the tone and texture of skin that the rest of us might miss.

3. Sometimes when you’re shooting an Asian model versus a Caucasian model, it all comes down to the makeup. With an Asian face, get a makeup artist with the ability to draw out details and do the eyeliner correctly is key.

4. Take the time to connect with every subject, make her feel brilliant and beautiful, and your images will sparkle every time.

See more of Smith’s tips and photos in the photo gallery.

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